One of the things that has made me put off adding retinol to my skincare routine is the famous “peeling” or retinol purge, which quite frankly can look scary. As someone with sensitive skin, I usually stay clear of too potent actives. However, having dry skin that is more prone to wrinkles than other skin types certainly makes retinol attractive. It's kind of a stuck-between-a-rock-and-a-hard-place type of situation.
Before trying retinol for the first time peeling, you should be informed about why I put together everything you need to know about the risk of using retinol so you can make an informed decision.
Why Does Retinol Cause Peeling?
The way retinol works when applied to the skin is the principal reason skin peeling occurs. When absorbed, retinol is converted into retinoic acid which in turn stimulates the rate at which new skin cells are formed, causing dead skin to shed. This physically results in flakiness on the surface layer of the skin while old skin falls off.
The skin naturally has a 30-day shedding cycle, which regardless of skincare will lead to dead skin cells falling off. What retinol and other retinoids do is speed up this process, while equally stimulating collagen production in the skin. The result is brighter, more firm, and bouncy skin.
Nevertheless, skin peeling from retinol use is not a given. Some skin types will be less prone to peeling than others. This will vary mostly based on the resilience of your skin barrier and its ability to tolerate such a potent active. The more sensitive your skin is the higher the chance of your skin peeling.
In all, mild peeling is an expected reaction to novel retinol usage, but other side effects like increased redness or skin dryness may be all the side effects you may experience. This will usually subside if your skincare routine contains hydrating and barrier support ingredients to mitigate the flakiness.
Should I Stop Using Retinol If My Face Is Peeling?
In general, skin peeling is a sign your retinol treatment is effective. The peeling effect often occurs during the initial stages of retinol use, especially if the skin isn't accustomed to it. Regular use, however, typically results in less peeling over time as the skin adjusts.
If past the 3-week mark, your skin is still over-peeling or is getting more sensitive, this could mean you are overusing your retinol treatment. Either reduce the amount you apply during each use, reduce the frequency at which you apply your treatment, or switch to a lower percentage.
How To Heal Retinol Peeling Skin Overnight
When experiencing peeling from retinol the key is to hydrate your skin as much as possible and reinforce your skin barrier to build tolerance.
Include hydrating serums, toners, or essences that both hydrate and soothe the skin. Look for ingredients like panthenol, centella asiatica, heartleaf, hyaluronic acid, allantoin, etc.
Switch to more rich and nourishing moisturizers that contain barrier repair ingredients like ceramides, amino acids, peptides, hyaluronic acid, aloe vera, niacinamide, etc.
Stay away from products that contain potential irritants like fragrance, exfoliants, or very harsh cleansers.
While exfoliation when peeling is not recommended, it can be done safely with the right ingredients. Gentle exfoliants like PHAs (gluconolactone) can be mild enough to help shed flaky skin. Remember to be very gentle with your skin, in no case should you use a facial scrub or physically rub your skin harshly.
How To Hydrate Your Skin While Using Retinol
Hydration is crucial when using retinol, especially during the initial period known as retinization when the skin adjusts to the active ingredient. This can temporarily disrupt the skin’s natural moisture balance and only proper hydration helps maintain the skin barrier, reducing the chance of irritation and allowing retinol to work effectively.
For effective hydration, look for products that contain ingredients like hyaluronic acid and ceramides. Hyaluronic acid draws water into the skin, providing long-lasting moisture and a plumping effect. Ceramides strengthen the skin’s protective barrier, helping to lock in moisture and prevent transepidermal water loss. Additional ingredients like glycerin, squalane, and panthenol are also beneficial for soothing and hydrating the skin. Apply a hydrating serum with hyaluronic acid after your retinol treatment, before your moisturizer, and consider using a thicker, occlusive cream at night to seal in hydration and prevent dryness from retinol use.
Does Peeling Mean Retinol Is Working?
Peeling can signal retinol’s boost in cell turnover, but it's not essential for effectiveness. Retinol can renew skin and improve hyperpigmentation without visible peeling. Dark spots may fade gradually, with or without peeling, so be patient—consistent use leads to smoother, brighter skin over time, even if peeling doesn't occur.
The way a retinol treatment is formulated can also mitigate or eliminate the risk of peeling. One way brands eliminate this risk is by formulating products with “encapsulated retinol”. Encapsulated retinol delivers retinol gradually, reducing direct exposure to the skin and minimizing irritation. This controlled release helps prevent the sudden cell turnover that causes peeling, making it gentler while maintaining retinol’s effectiveness over time.
How Long Does It Take For Retinol Peeling To Heal?
Retinol peeling usually heals within 1-2 weeks as the skin adjusts to increased cell turnover. Initially, the skin may feel dry and flaky, but with continued hydration and gentle care, it gradually becomes smoother and more resilient, revealing brighter, fresher skin underneath.
How Long Does Tretinoin Peeling Last?
What about tretinoin, retinol’s older sister? Tretinoin is a prescription-strength retinoid with higher potency, directly converting to retinoic acid in the skin. This difference means tretinoin accelerates cell turnover more rapidly than over-the-counter retinoids like retinol, often resulting in more intense peeling.
Unlike other retinoids that require conversion steps (retinol requires 2), tretinoin’s direct action intensifies its effects, making it more effective for treating acne and aging but also increasing the likelihood of dryness and peeling.
To manage peeling from tretinoin, start by using it only 2-3 times per week to let the skin gradually adjust. Apply it on a clean, dry face, and follow with a thick, fragrance-free moisturizer to lock in hydration. Use gentle, hydrating cleansers and avoid other exfoliants or active ingredients like AHAs or BHAs. Applying tretinoin after moisturizer can also buffer its effects, reducing peeling while helping the skin build tolerance over time.
What Not To Do When Treating Tretinoin Peeling
Just like retinol, here are a few tips on how to manage peeling induced by tretinoin.
Avoid over-exfoliating, using harsh scrubs, or layering additional active ingredients (like AHAs or BHAs) as these can worsen peeling and irritation. Refrain from using products with alcohol or fragrance, which can further dry and sensitize the skin.
To aid recovery, stick to a gentle, hydrating skincare routine with a fragrance-free moisturizer and avoid hot water, which can strip moisture. Apply tretinoin sparingly, only on dry skin, and consider buffering with a moisturizer. Consistent, gentle care helps minimize peeling while allowing tretinoin to work effectively.
How Does A Retinol Chemical Peel Work?
While at-home retinol treatments can help improve your skin, getting a retinol chemical peel at a med spa clinic or with an aesthetician can deliver even better results.
Retinol chemical peels exfoliate and rejuvenate the skin, helping to reduce fine lines, hyperpigmentation, and acne scars. Post-peel, expect some redness and peeling for a few days, followed by smoother, more radiant skin with a clearer complexion as the skin regenerates.
Most OTC retinol treatments contain between 0.05% - 2%, a retinol chemical peel delivers a much higher concentration of retinol directly to the skin in a controlled treatment setting. This concentrated dose penetrates deeper layers, accelerating cell turnover more rapidly than at-home retinol products, resulting in a more intense peel effect.
This also means you will experience more intense skin peeling and other side effects so it is important to go to a licensed professional who will provide the right guidelines for aftercare at home.
Frequently Asked Questions About Retinol Peeling Skin
Why Does Retinol Make Your Skin Peel?
Retinol accelerates cell turnover, causing old cells to shed rapidly, which often leads to peeling. This initial reaction is common as skin adjusts to retinol’s resurfacing effects.
How Do I Heal Retinol Peeling Skin Overnight?
Apply a rich, fragrance-free moisturizer with ceramides and hyaluronic acid, and avoid active ingredients. Adding an overnight hydrating mask or thick occlusive layer can lock in moisture, promoting faster healing.
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